Manufacture

This is the manufacturing process for my toile:

1. I drew around the front and back Block onto Calico to get 2 pieces, leaving 1.5cm seam allowance along the shoulder line and down the side/waist.

2. The darts were then marked through the block - for both pieces - onto the Calico, in order to be able to draw them on for sewing.

3. I then sewed the armhole and front darts into the front piece of the half-waistcoat. The back dart was then sewn into the back piece.

4. The two pieces were sewn together (with the piece inside-out) at the shoulder and side.

5. I placed this onto a mannequin, and used string and pins to determine my design, and cut unnecessary pieces off the waistcoat.

6. This was then unpicked. This would give me the shape of my pattern. The block was then drawn around again, only this time onto Pattern Paper, and the Calico Pattern was matched up and i marked my design onto the outlined block shape, remembering the seam allowance. This was my Pattern.

7. The pattern had to be drawn around onto new Calico to make the front pieces of the waistcoat. Instead of drawing the Darts and Lines onto the new Calico with Pens or Pencil, a needle and bright-coloured thread were put though each Corner Point of the Dart, and on other key points of the pattern, as to identify them When the Pattern Paper was removed.

8. When everything was confidently marked out, I removed the Pattern Paper from the design, and sewed the darts into the first piece; this was then repeated with the second, only the other way around, so it would create the other side of the front of the waistcoat (Left or Right).

9. The back piece was created in a similar fashion, only drawing the pattern onto folded in half Calico, with what would be the middle of the waistcoat lining exactly along the fold of the fabric, so that each half would be symmetrical. This was then pinned in place and cut around.

10. The darts were then marked out individually on each side using needle and thread. These darts were then sewn individually.

11. Whilst inside-out, the pieces were sewn together along the shoulders and down by the waist, and the final Toile was made.